Speaker Cable - Upgrade ?

[tank121]

you've probably seen my garage conversion thread which is nearly
complete.

Due to the room dimensions my trust Dynaudio 70 Floorstanders have been
sold.

My current speaker cable is 2 x2m QED Silver Anniversary XT.


New speakers Dali Mentor Menuets will be stand mounted. Origanlly they
were going to be wall mounted on Dali brackets and I bought 2 x 4 Chord
Rumour cable.

I probably only need 2 x 2m now. Is the Chord cable a considerable
improvement over the QED ? If so should I cut it down and sell the
other 2 x 2m spare lenghts or keep it on for future purposes ?

[Phil Leigh]

Post by tank121
you've probably seen my garage conversion thread which is nearly
complete.
Due to the room dimensions my trust Dynaudio 70 Floorstanders have been
sold.
My current speaker cable is 2 x2m QED Silver Anniversary XT.
New speakers Dali Mentor Menuets will be stand mounted. Origanlly they
were going to be wall mounted on Dali brackets and I bought 2 x 4 Chord
Rumour cable.
I probably only need 2 x 2m now. Is the Chord cable a considerable
improvement over the QED ? If so should I cut it down and sell the
other 2 x 2m spare lenghts or keep it on for future purposes ?
I only had them terminated at one end too because of the wall mounting
should I get the other end done ?

Bare wire connections are best avoided since the wire will inevitably
oxidise over time... however, this also happens with mechanical
crimp/compession connections. If the connections can be soldered I
would do it - I would have the plugs soldered to the speaker cable.

Personally I think you would find it hard to hear any differences
between those 2 types of cable you mention, but the usual advice is to
try them out.
--
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
Touch(wired/XP) - Audiolense 3.3/2.0+INGUZ DRC - MF M1 DAC - Linn 5103
- full Aktiv 5.1 system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5),
Pekin Tuner, Townsend Supertweeters, Blue Jeans Belden Digital,Kimber
8TC Speaker & Chord Signature Plus Interconnect cables
Stax4070+SRM7/II phones
Kitchen Boom, Outdoors: SB Radio, Harmony One remote for everything.
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[tank121]

Thanks Phil I'll do some blind testing.

Any volunteers close to Poynton Cheshire ??

[Daverz]

About the oxidation issue with terminators: I can't claim any great
experience, but I've read that if you do the crimp properly with a good
crimp tool, you'll get a gas-tight connection that shouldn't have
oxidation problems.

[Phil Leigh]

Post by Daverz
About the oxidation issue with terminators: I can't claim any great
experience, but I've read that if you do the crimp properly with a good
crimp tool, you'll get a gas-tight connection that shouldn't have
oxidation problems.

You need exact (professional)cable and connectors and tools for a true
GT connection... and even then it only delays the process. Multicore
cables are very problematic as there is no easy way to guarantee a
consistent cold weld through all cores...

Soldering is preferable in most DIY situations.

If using any non-soldered connection, I would recommend re-making the
connection to fresh wire every 3-5 years, depending on the environment.
--
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
Touch(wired/XP) - Audiolense 3.3/2.0+INGUZ DRC - MF M1 DAC - Linn 5103
- full Aktiv 5.1 system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5),
Pekin Tuner, Townsend Supertweeters, Blue Jeans Belden Digital,Kimber
8TC Speaker & Chord Signature Plus Interconnect cables
Stax4070+SRM7/II phones
Kitchen Boom, Outdoors: SB Radio, Harmony One remote for everything.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[earwaxer9]

I like solid core copper. The Audioquest cables are the best bang for
the buck IMO. You can get them from Audio Adviser (most of the time on
sale). The fatter the better!

[Ron Olsen]

Anyone thinking of buying expensive speaker wire should take the time to
get educated on the subject: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

And then buy high-quality wire for less than $2/ft. from a source like
Blue Jeans: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm

Spending lots of money on speaker wire may give you pride of ownership
but it isn't going to give you better sound quality.

Owning a Rolex watch may make you feel good and impress your friends,
but it won't tell time any better than a $20 Timex.

[Mnyb]

Post by Ron Olsen
Anyone thinking of buying expensive speaker wire should take the time to
get educated on the subject: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
And then buy high-quality wire for less than $2/ft. from a source like
Blue Jeans: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm
Spending lots of money on speaker wire may give you pride of ownership
but it isn't going to give you better sound quality.
Owning a Rolex watch may make you feel good and impress your friends,
but it won't tell time any better than a $20 Timex.

Only watch out for really low impedance speakers they need thicker
cables (more cross section of copper) And keep them short and if they
are not short don't tie the leftover to a nice bundle that looks like
and act as a coil .
--
Mnyb

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[Daverz]

Post by Phil Leigh
You need exact (professional)cable and connectors and tools for a true
GT connection... and even then it only delays the process. Multicore
cables are very problematic as there is no easy way to guarantee a
consistent cold weld through all cores...
Soldering is preferable in most DIY situations.
If using any non-soldered connection, I would recommend re-making the
connection to fresh wire every 3-5 years, depending on the environment.

Phil, could you expand a bit on what you mean by "exact" here?

Here's the crimp tool I've been using

[image: Loading Image...]

For wire, I have some Canare 4S11. Terminators are harder as I need
smaller spades for my Vandersteens. The smaller spades you tend to
find at Parts Express are usually for automotive applications. Richard
Vandersteen actually recommends O-rings and says tin-plated are fine.
These are usually made for automotive or marine use. For the amp end,
I've been using Audioquest spades.

[mooblie]

Phil, could you expand a bit on what you mean by "exact" here?...

If I may jump in here - for correction by Phil if needed! - the crimp
tool jaws, the crimp connectors (and the cable for that matter) all
need to have "matching" and precise dimensions to get a proper joint to
the manufacturer's "gas tight" specification.

You can't just use any old crimp tool to chomp any old crimp connectors
and hope to get a decent joint.

[Phil Leigh]

Post by mooblie
If I may jump in here - for correction by Phil if needed! - the crimp
tool jaws, the crimp connectors (and the cable for that matter) all
need to have "matching" and precise dimensions to get a proper joint to
the manufacturer's "gas tight" specification.
You can't just use any old crimp tool to chomp any old crimp connectors
and hope to get a decent joint.

Exactly. Everything has to be "matched" to achieve the correct cold
weld.

Car manufacturers (nowadays offering extended warranties) rely on crimp
connections that have to last under harsh conditions. Their selection of
tools, connectors etc is dictated by manufacturers specs/guidance.

However, bear in mind that car connections often are high DC current
carriers not lower current AC connections that are more electrically
fragile by definition.
--
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
Touch(wired/XP) - Audiolense 3.3/2.0+INGUZ DRC - MF M1 DAC - Linn 5103
- full Aktiv 5.1 system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5),
Pekin Tuner, Townsend Supertweeters, Blue Jeans Belden Digital,Kimber
8TC Speaker & Chord Signature Plus Interconnect cables
Stax4070+SRM7/II phones
Kitchen Boom, Outdoors: SB Radio, Harmony One remote for everything.
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[earwaxer9]

I just solder all my connections. Its easy to disconnect (break out the
iron and your done), and you dont have to think about it. I solder both
ends of my speaker cable.

[tommytrousers]

Yep me to, solder on the banana plugs and then heatshrink over the top
to prevent shourt, cheap neat and effective.:)


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[ralphpnj]

The thicker the speaker cable the more it resembles garden hose and
hosed is exactly what you get when you buy the cable.



Living Rm: Transporter-SimAudio pre/power amps-Vandersteen 3A Sign. &
sub
Home Theater: Touch-Marantz HTR-Energy Veritas 2.1 & Linn sub
Computer Rm: Touch-Headroom Desktop w/DAC-Aragon amp-Energy Veritas 2.1
& Energy sub
Bedroom: Touch-HR Desktop w/DAC-Audio Refinement amp-Energy Veritas 2.0
Guest Rm: Duet-Sony soundbar
Garage: SB3-JVC compact system
Controls: iPeng; SB Controller; Moose & Muso
Server: SBS on dedicated windows 7 computer w/2 Drobos
'Last.fm' (http://www.last.fm/user/jazzfann/)
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[SlimChances]

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audioquest-Wild-Wood-Speaker-Cable_3?sc=7&category=1223



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